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Author Topic: New Rotors @ 30K?  (Read 381 times)
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Capt_BJ
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« Reply #15 on: September 05, 2008, 05:00:42 PM »
sorry - disagree, the MINI brakes are among the easyist I've done.  Many cars today need the rear piston turned as this is a side effect of a common e-brake design.  A suitable tool can be found at Harbor Freight for $20 (on sale....and at HF that means every 3 weeks). The HF one ain't the only one that works....you can 'borrow' from many auto parts stores (I like excuses to add to my tool box)  Failure to heed the advice that such a tool will make the job much easier don't mean the job is hard.....

Wanna a tuff one....my Honda has several springs and clips that need to get in there too......after 2 hours I was about to have it towed to a dealer (then I figured out the secret)
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« Reply #16 on: September 05, 2008, 05:39:33 PM »
Well BJ, it's a long story but the gist of it is that I tried doing the job anyway without the tool.  It is anything but easy to do without the tool!  Hell, it wasn't all that easy with the tool!   Anyway, all of the auto parts stores had closed that evening and I had to scramble to borrow the tool from a friend.  The sad part is that it wasn't my car but Erika's and it was blocking my car in the driveway.  Erika bought the tool a few days later and I did her rear brakes the next weekend.
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« Reply #17 on: September 08, 2008, 06:42:01 AM »
TJ - I've heard the Sponge Tech Suspensions is coming out with just that rotor. You will have your choice of colors between pink or lavender.

And your right, a road racer lives or dies by his brakes. I've been on track with no brakes and that's just plain SCARRY  icon_eek  I always pay very close attention to my brakes and their condition.

Warped - The front brakes are a piece of cake, all you need is a c-clamp. The rears are a little more tricky. I use a pair of needle nose to turn the piston and muscle to push it in. Someday I'll buy that stupid $5.00 tool.
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Roy

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« Reply #18 on: September 08, 2008, 03:45:47 PM »
Quote from: accentz on September 08, 2008, 06:42:01 AM
TJ - I've heard the Sponge Tech Suspensions is coming out with just that rotor. You will have your choice of colors between pink or lavender.

And your right, a road racer lives or dies by his brakes. I've been on track with no brakes and that's just plain SCARRY  icon_eek  I always pay very close attention to my brakes and their condition.

Warped - The front brakes are a piece of cake, all you need is a c-clamp. The rears are a little more tricky. I use a pair of needle nose to turn the piston and muscle to push it in. Someday I'll buy that stupid $5.00 tool.

Roy,

 I tried the needle nose and push thing but it wasn't happening with that damn caliper!  The fronts were indeed a piece of cake.  I'm not sure of the name of that style of caliper but I call them quick-change calipers.  Two bolts and 1 clip then bang!  You're done!  icon_mrgreen

P.S. If you were able to push and turn a caliper in with pure muscle, remind me never to tick you off!  hehee
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Capt_BJ
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« Reply #19 on: September 09, 2008, 07:32:16 AM »

The famous write up on NAM has you simply use a clamp and force the piston back into the caliber (or the special turning tool).  This works fine but takes a bit of force because you fight the fluid pressure back thru the system to the resevoir.

Haynes manuals pretty consistenty recommend opening the bleeder valve at the caliber when pressing the piston.  If you do this you have much less pressure to overcome and the piston usually will go back with finger pressure.  Haynes recommends doing this so dirty fluid doesn't get pushed up the line.  I find it just makes more mess and you may need to top off the fluid for what you loose so don't usually do it myself.  But if you find you can't get that puppy to press in it is a way to go. 

Slow steady pressure giving the fluid time to flow uphill will eventually work.
« Last Edit: September 09, 2008, 07:34:58 AM by Capt_BJ » Logged
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« Reply #20 on: October 04, 2008, 12:04:13 PM »
Quote from: pnut_jet on September 05, 2008, 08:17:46 AM
For that price you can get both pads AND rotors replaced!

Jenn

it was Jenn.

any way,  I got the CF line that the brakes and rotors had to be replaced by them because
a) the car would not pass state inspection
b) without CF intalling mini parts the warrenty would be void.

how could I say no?

I deal with Crown mini from now on!  stay away from CF.

(and is it true that my warrenty will be voided if I don't use mini stock parts?) -teresa
heading up to Willamsburg today - wave if you see me and Pete in our Feliz!
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« Reply #21 on: October 04, 2008, 01:07:00 PM »
Quote from: TaiChi on October 04, 2008, 12:04:13 PM
Quote from: pnut_jet on September 05, 2008, 08:17:46 AM
For that price you can get both pads AND rotors replaced!

Jenn

it was Jenn.

any way,  I got the CF line that the brakes and rotors had to be replaced by them because
a) the car would not pass state inspection
That's just pure B.S. ... no way around it .... and out and out lie
b) without CF intalling mini parts the warrenty would be void.
This is truth but expressed in a way to have you draw the wrong conclusion.  For simple reasons of logic, if you put non OEM pads on, MINI isn't going to warrant those pads.  If MINI didn't do the work then ther certainly can't be expected to warrant the work.  So if you have an isse with the brakes later they will be perfectly justified in saying you fouled...and I'd easily extend this to the rotors and there's a degree of risk for other parts of the wheel assmbly.  But what about the engine?  They CAN NOT say that your non-OEM brakes void the warranty on the engine....  OH they may TRY but trust me, they won't win an arguement on that one and any decent dealer won't try that one.

how could I say no?

I deal with Crown mini from now on!  stay away from CF.

(and is it true that my warrenty will be voided if I don't use mini stock parts?) -teresa
heading up to Willamsburg today - wave if you see me and Pete in our Feliz!
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