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Author Topic: Rim questions  (Read 3657 times)
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maacodale
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« Reply #45 on: November 24, 2008, 09:42:03 PM »
 
 

I think it depends on how serious you are. For a local event, I'd say no. If you were chasing ProSolo points or a national title, maybe. For your average autocrosser that small of a difference wouldn't be noticed. Even considering I've autocrossed for darn near 30 years, I wouldn't worry about it and I've trophied at national tour events. Not that that means anything to anybody. I know there are people that will argue with my opinion. In 80% of autocrossers the driver needs more work than any part of the car. I'd be more interested in A) seat time, B) good brakes, C)sticky tires! The weight of my wheels wouldn't be a major concern. Go for what ya like. Worry about the weight later. The Enkies we use for Tyler's  car are heavy, but we've won 4 out of 4 events each.
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« Reply #46 on: November 25, 2008, 02:06:51 AM »
Quote from: Warped on November 24, 2008, 03:47:21 PM

They are $300 each shipped

I like these they are clean and simple...  and thats what i look for in a rim!  but hey its your call!
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« Reply #47 on: November 25, 2008, 09:33:50 AM »
I agree with Dale. Unless your going for that last thousandth of a second a couple of pounds on each corner isn't going to make a difference. And that's only if you've got years of experience and feeling the edge of adhesion come naturally. If your running street tires a few pounds will make absolutely no difference.

Buy the rims you like based on style first and weight second. Everyone knows lighter is better but with light weight also come less metal and possibly less strength. Forged rims are stronger than cast rims but they are also more expensive.
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Roy

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« Reply #48 on: November 25, 2008, 05:29:47 PM »
I agree with the above comments. Your just getting started and when you get serious then you'll need a second set of rims and tires. So get what is pleasing to your eyes. 023
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« Reply #49 on: November 25, 2008, 07:58:06 PM »
Thanks for your honesty and candor Roy, Steve and everyone else.  icon_mrgreen  Now I'm going to try to find the balance between blingy and lighter-than-stock.   103
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« Reply #50 on: November 25, 2008, 11:39:29 PM »
Ok, I've made an executive decision...  The rims that I'm getting are the Nakayama Schumacher R8's in CHROME as seen below. 


I chose this rim for several reasons.

1: It's CHROME
2: It's sexy!
3: The back is coated/painted a charcoal-ish color that will help hide brake dust.
4: It's CHROME
5: It's reasonably light at 18-ish pounds.
6: The caps are included.
7: It's CHROME
8: It's sexy!

One of the few questions that I have for those of you with aftermarket rims are...

1: The offset or ET of this rim is 38.  The factory crown spokes are 45.  Does this mean that these rims will be closer to the inside of the car or the outside?

2: If this is going to move them inside, would it be by 7mm each wheel as the math indicates?

3: If so, do I need 7mm spacers?

4: Metal hub centric rings or aluminum?

5: It requires tuner lug bolts.  If what I've read is correct, are those the ones that all look like lock lugs and take a weird special little tool?

6: Is the center of aftermarket wheels about the same thickness as stock or are longer/shorter lug bolts needed?

I'm sure that there will be more questions...  Everytime I figure one thing out it seems to lead to 10 more questions.
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Jeff
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« Reply #51 on: November 26, 2008, 07:57:49 AM »
Tug...  Sexy?  Can I forcast a centerfold in the coming weeks?  PopcornEmoticon

Nice selection!  023
« Last Edit: November 26, 2008, 08:55:36 AM by Mini S Pilot » Logged
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« Reply #52 on: November 26, 2008, 09:25:32 AM »
Jeff, this is what I found out when I put rims on the other day.

tuner lugs are the ones with the special little tool. Make sure you get a tuner kit for 07/08 because the 06 and down will not work(different thread pattern I was told).

The hub centering ring were plastic but they are just there to line up the lugs. I was told they just keep it in place, that there is no significance other than that.

As far as the off set. It was explained to me that the higher the number the further the wheel sticks out.

Thats all I got, I'm sure some of these guys have more info but it was fresh in my head.
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« Reply #53 on: November 26, 2008, 11:28:46 AM »
Quote from: Forrest on November 26, 2008, 09:25:32 AM

The hub centering ring were plastic but they are just there to line up the lugs. I was told they just keep it in place, that there is no significance other than that.


I'm the guy that told Forrest about the centering rings. They help line up the wheel to make it easier to screw the lugs on. The lug nuts/bolts are what actually aligns the rim and holds it to the spindle. The rims on my car right now are supposed to have them but I ain't got none so I went without. I took extra care to insure the lugs centered in the tapers and torqued them down. They're running great. I also ran a track event on borrowed rims and tires (off an Integra of all things) like this and didn't have a problem. You will never put the kind of stress on rims driving on the street that I put on them flogging it around a race track. When on the track with my MINI I generally have two speeds - hard on the brakes or WFO

One note about centering rings though. Plastic is fine but if at all possible get solid rings rather than the ones that have some open space and ribs in them. Lelane found out the hard way that the ones with ribs don't hold up to the heat from the brakes when on track. The solid ones are holding up just fine.
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« Reply #54 on: November 26, 2008, 11:45:20 AM »
That right it was Roy that told me about the rings. Thanks. They say the mind is the first thing to go.
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« Reply #55 on: November 26, 2008, 01:30:59 PM »
Quote from: Warped on November 25, 2008, 11:39:29 PM
Ok, I've made an executive decision...  The rims that I'm getting are the Nakayama Schumacher R8's in CHROME as seen below. 


I chose this rim for several reasons.

1: It's CHROME
2: It's sexy!
3: The back is coated/painted a charcoal-ish color that will help hide brake dust.
4: It's CHROME
5: It's reasonably light at 18-ish pounds.
6: The caps are included.
7: It's CHROME
8: It's sexy!

I really just wanted to see this wheel one more time, hence the "qoute".

Jeff, all the technical jargon aside, I think your choice looks, (think of Billy Crystal doing Fernando) MAHVELOUS!
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« Reply #56 on: November 26, 2008, 03:39:15 PM »
Quote from: Mini S Pilot on November 26, 2008, 07:57:49 AM
Tug...  Sexy?  Can I forcast a centerfold in the coming weeks?  PopcornEmoticon

Nice selection!  023




Are you implying that you want to see a pic of me and Tug naked?   103 106 016
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« Reply #57 on: November 26, 2008, 03:44:46 PM »
Quote from: Forrest on November 26, 2008, 09:25:32 AM

The hub centering ring were plastic but they are just there to line up the lugs. I was told they just keep it in place, that there is no significance other than that. 

Thanks for the info Forrest.  icon_mrgreen



Quote from: accentz on November 26, 2008, 11:28:46 AM

I'm the guy that told Forrest about the centering rings. They help line up the wheel to make it easier to screw the lugs on. The lug nuts/bolts are what actually aligns the rim and holds it to the spindle. The rims on my car right now are supposed to have them but I ain't got none so I went without. I took extra care to insure the lugs centered in the tapers and torqued them down. They're running great. I also ran a track event on borrowed rims and tires (off an Integra of all things) like this and didn't have a problem. You will never put the kind of stress on rims driving on the street that I put on them flogging it around a race track. When on the track with my MINI I generally have two speeds - hard on the brakes or WFO

One note about centering rings though. Plastic is fine but if at all possible get solid rings rather than the ones that have some open space and ribs in them. Lelane found out the hard way that the ones with ribs don't hold up to the heat from the brakes when on track. The solid ones are holding up just fine.

Roy,

 Thanks for the explanation.  I was under the impression that the rings were there so that the weight of the car actually sits on the center of the rim via the raised lip on the hub.  I know that the lug bolts (in our case) holds the rim to the rotor/hub and thus transfers weight that way.  I was kind of concerned about that and the fact that these rims are 38 offset.  I was considering having a machine shop fabricate some combination rings/spacers that will add back the lost 7mm of offset at each wheel.  "Wider is better"  Right?   icon_mrgreen   Without the spacers, I'm going to lose a total of 14mm of width in Tug's stance.  I know a local machine shop that will custom make what I want in high grade aluminum at a reasonable cost.  Should I bother or is the difference in stance negligible?
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« Reply #58 on: November 26, 2008, 03:45:51 PM »
Quote from: MD_IN_UK on November 26, 2008, 01:30:59 PM


I really just wanted to see this wheel one more time, hence the "qoute".

Jeff, all the technical jargon aside, I think your choice looks, (think of Billy Crystal doing Fernando) MAHVELOUS!



Thanks John.  I'm as happy as a tornado in a trailer park!   icon_mrgreen 023
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Jeff
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« Reply #59 on: November 26, 2008, 05:49:39 PM »
Those are the BLING. 103
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