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Author Topic: 05 MC R50 System flushes and maintenance  (Read 333 times)
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inmijd
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« on: January 09, 2012, 11:47:05 AM »

Hey all,

I recently bought an 05 MC, about 2 1/2 months ago, and it will be the first time I do the maintenance on any car I've owned.  This past Saturday I replaced the brake pads for the front and the back.  This proved quite simple so I want to start doing regular maintenance on some of the systems like the brake system, P/S system, Coolant Flush and a Tune up.  There are some other things I will be doing as well but I just want to make sure this car last as long as it can.  It just rolled over to 97500 miles so I think it could use some TLC.

I would love any advice from anyone that has done this before.  I realized that I would have loved some input from fellow MINI owners before I started the brakes and it could have saved me some time looking for a 7MM Socket allen Wrench and a Caliper clamp tool to thread the back calipers.   091  Trust me that was extremely frustrating with needle nose pliers lol

Also I have two heated front seats and the passenger seat is not working.  I looked at the fuses and there is only one fuse for the seat heater, so I'm not sure why its not working.  The Drivers side works fine and the cords under the seat are plugged in.  The warranty on the car ends on the 16th of January, should I take it back to the dealer?  Would they cover that?
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Matt Bell
Norfolk, VA
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« Reply #1 on: January 14, 2012, 07:53:17 AM »

My guess is they would cover the seat heater issue. It's only a quick phone call away to find out before the 16th comes and goes.
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JumpingJackFlash
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« Reply #2 on: January 14, 2012, 02:24:57 PM »

I bought one of the OEM universal brake caliper tools from Autozone.  Last I checked, the kit was ~$30.  Might be a few dollars more now.  The trick to the rear calipers is patience.  The two points on the tool have to align almost perfectly with the holes, and it takes alot of twisting to get them fully seated (i.e. bottomed out).  Once you change your rear pads, you work the e-brake on-and-off to get them to readjust.

I found a more reliable site for recalls and technical service bulletins (TSBs):  AutoMD - Recalls and TSBs.  Here is a TSB specific to air bag seat wiring:  http://www.automd.com/tsb/bulletin_b323005/.  Check with the dealership to find out if this will fix your problem.

You said your warranty expires Monday.  Is it an aftermarket plan?  The standard warranty is 3/36, and the factory extended warranty is 4/50.  I purchased an extended warranty in May 2010 through the approved 3rd-party company BMW deals with.  It's a 5/60 plan that started the day I bought it, which was at the 50K mile mark.  That means I will have coverage all the way to May 2015 or 110K miles, whichever comes first.
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inmijd
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2012, 08:12:53 AM »

Thanks for the help!

The brakes are still a little noisy but no where near what they were and since I put Ceramic pads on this time I realize it may be a little noisy for another few hundred miles until they break in fully.

There is some whining and other noises but I think I may have found the root of that problem which is the Power steering fluid.  I'm pretty sure someone tried to top off the fluid with the wrong stuff.  I checked a few discussions on the web and apparently the pump can make some pretty nasty noises if the fluid is wrong or low.  I already bought a huge can of P/S fluid that is the correct match and plan on swapping that out this weekend to see if that fixes the issue.

The rear calipers when a friend and I did them would move, we were putting decent pressure and turning at the same time for about 15 minutes and then decided to start measuring and it never moved.  The only way we got it to go back in was to literally put both of our strength into it and finally it gave way.  This makes me think that the rear calipers may be bad or just need to be services and cleaned.  Not really sure on that one yet.

The air bag lights go on an off, it did it the first week I had the car and then didn't happen for several weeks.  So I'm sure its a wiring issue that may be the same as why the seat heater doesn't work on the passenger side. 

I have found that these cars require a project at least every other weekend.  I have no problem with this because in makes me really happy to be able to work on this car!

The Warranty that I thought I had was a scam sent to me in the mail.  I had a sneaking suspicion about that but was being optimistic that the previous owner bought an extended warranty on the car that hadn't expired. 
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Matt Bell
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« Reply #4 on: January 26, 2012, 10:19:41 AM »

I have an 06' MCS and I just finished doing a BUNCH of prevenative maintenance to it, including changing my leaking power steering hoses. I will say this, if the powersteering system is the same as on the MCS it does make quite the mess. I used a cheapo syphon kit from napa to suck the fluid out of the res. in the engine bay, then disconnected the hoses and let them drain, this was messy at that point.

I advise stuffing some towels around the connections to absorb or at least direct the flow of the draining fluid. In all honesty, if I were to do it again, I would probably remove the power steering pump and pull the res. down through the bottom to drain it all. May be less mess in my opinion.

As for coolant flushing, there are some walkthroughs for it on NAM, but a lot of people just do a drain and fill. I essentially removed the lower coolant hose to the radiator, drained that, THEN openeded the bleed screw, more drained, THEN opened the coolant res. and more drained. I ran 2 gallons of distilled water through the res in the engine bay and let it drain continuously into a pan from the lower radiator hose until it was completely clear. Hooked everything back up and refilled with the proper BMW/Mini coolant. Bled the system and topped it off. I will be driving the car again starting tomorrow so hopefully no more problems!
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inmijd
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« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2012, 10:05:29 AM »

Well as far as the power steering I just used a Turkey baster to draw out the OBVIOUSLY bad fluid.  It was a dark brown color and the new proper stuff was a semi clear green/blue liquid.  I will most like flush it out later but doing that twice pretty much cleaned it out.

The brake fluid is my next project which I'm hoping isn't too much of a mess or is very hard lol  I heard that you have to be careful as make sure there are no air bubbles in the line so I will be working on that.  I have replaced the air filter and cabin filter which really helped since there was a funky smell coming from the vents.

The main problem now is something that I would have never expected.  I went to change my oil this past weekend and the oil filter housing was extremely hard to get off but it eventually released.  The biggest problem was after that was done I went under the car to release the plug and it would not move.  I mean at all!  I tried everything, I tried a 12 point and a 6 point socket.  Neither one would work and I was putting about 80-100lbs of pressure trying to get it off.  Well it finally got down to a friend helping and he tried to get it and completely stripped the bolt.  So at this point I'm stuck, I replaced the oil filter but now the only way it seems to replace the oil is to drill out the bolt which I'm really hoping doesn't show stripped threads in the oil pan.
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Matt Bell
Norfolk, VA
05 Mini Cooper 2dr Hatchback
First one and certainly not the last!
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